From La Spezia: Portovenere and 3 Islands Boat Trip

The best part of this trip is its close look at the Gulf of Poets, a stretch of coast where ruined forts, marble cliffs, islands, and fishing villages all appear within a short boat ride. You travel in a small, comfortable boat rather than a large sightseeing vessel, so the captain can point out details and adjust the ride to sea conditions. I especially like the views of Scola Tower and the passage through Le Bocche, the narrow waterway beside St. Peter’s Church.

I also like the free time in Portovenere, which gives you more than a passing glimpse from the water. The short stop is useful for a walk, focaccia, a church visit, or a quick look at the harbor. The main drawback is time: 2.5 hours goes quickly, and the Portovenere stop may feel too brief if you want a relaxed meal, a full village walk, and a swim.

Key points at a glance

• Scola Tower and the three islands: See a lonely Genoese fort, Tinetto, Tino, and Palmaria from the water.
• A 12-seat speedboat: The leather seats and easy-access ladder make the ride more personal and comfortable than a large ferry.
• Portovenere stop: You get about 75 minutes to explore the harbor, alleys, and historic sights at your own pace.
• Sea caves and marble cliffs: The Blue Grotto and Palmaria’s old quarries are major scenery highlights, viewed from outside.
• A careful local captain: The ride can be quick and lively, but the captain adjusts to the waves and conditions.
• Bring your own supplies: Food and drinks are not included, and there is no restroom on board.

Why this Gulf of Poets boat trip is worth your time

La Spezia is often treated as a base for the Cinque Terre, but the coast in the other direction offers a different kind of day out. The Gulf of Poets has a quieter feel, with small maritime villages, military ruins, islands, and broad views across the water.

This tour is a good way to see that setting without arranging several separate boat rides. At $81 per person, it is not the cheapest way to reach Portovenere, but you are paying for more than a transfer. The price includes a scenic coastal route, a small boat, a captain who speaks Italian and English, and a stop in Portovenere.

The boat has 12 padded leather seats. That matters because a small open boat puts you close to the water and gives you a better view than a high-sided vessel, but it also means you will feel the motion more directly. One ride can be smooth, while another can include spray and larger waves. A past outing included some splashes but was handled carefully, and another passenger found the first part bumpy before the ride settled down.

You meet at the HopHop Boat floating platform about halfway along Passeggiata Morin in La Spezia. There is an exclusive floating lounge where you can wait before boarding. Arrive prepared for a boat outing, not a formal cruise: wear practical shoes, leave high heels behind, and bring a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and a towel.

Leaving La Spezia through the fishing villages

The first part of the route follows the western side of the Gulf of Poets. You pass Cadimare, Fezzano, and Le Grazie, three traditional maritime hamlets often grouped as the Borgate Marinare.

From the water, these places make sense as working coastal communities. You see the waterfront setting, small harbors, and the relationship between the villages and the hills behind them. This is one reason I prefer the boat route to a simple trip straight to Portovenere. The ride gives you a sense of the gulf as a whole, not just its most famous village.

The captain is an important part of this section. The company describes the captains as trained and locally familiar with the coast, and the experience is offered in English and Italian. Sirena and her team are specifically associated with taking care of passengers, while individual captains may vary.

The boat is a speedboat, so this is not a slow, silent glide through the water. You get a lively ride with changing views, music on some departures, and a closer connection to the coast. If you are uneasy on boats, tell the captain at the start. The ride is designed to be safe, but the sea can still be active.

Scola Tower and the coast’s defensive past

Scola Tower is one of the most memorable sights on the route. The old stone fort sits alone in the water, separated from the shore and looking almost too small to have once been a serious defense post.

The tower was built in the 17th century by the Republic of Genoa. Its position helped guard the gulf against attackers, and its isolation makes the purpose clear: this was a watch point, not a comfortable residence.

You only pass by, so do not expect to enter or walk around the ruins. The value is the view from the boat. You can photograph the tower against the open water, and the captain may provide context as you pass.

This is also a good example of what the tour does best. It connects scenery with a simple historical detail. You are not spending an hour inside a museum, but you are seeing a place whose position and shape tell much of the story.

Three islands, three different moods

The route then reaches the three islands associated with Portovenere. You do not make a full land visit to each one. Instead, the boat circles or passes the important points, giving you a coastal view that would be difficult to get from shore.

Tinetto is the smallest of the three and is known for the remains of a sixth-century chapel. From the water, the appeal is its stark, isolated character. It is a brief sight, but the ruined chapel gives the island a human story rather than making it just another rocky outcrop.

Tino is protected and contains the remains of an old monastery. It is also home to what is described as Italy’s oldest active lighthouse. You see it from the boat, and access is limited, so the passing view is the practical way to include it in a short coastal trip.

Palmaria is the largest island and has the most varied scenery. Its wild shore, cliffs, old military positions, and marble quarries give the ride a more rugged feel. The quarry is no longer working, but the pale rock remains easy to spot from the sea.

You also pass the coastal anti-aircraft battery known as Ronca. Like Scola Tower, it adds a military layer to a route that might otherwise seem focused only on beaches and pretty villages.

Blue Grotto, Stella Maris, and the marble coast

The Blue Grotto on Palmaria is viewed from outside. Its turquoise water is best appreciated from the boat, but you should not book this outing expecting a cave swim or an interior visit.

The same is true of Stella Maris, a statue of the Virgin Mary positioned as a guardian over a submerged reef. It is a small detail, yet it helps you read the coast. The trip is full of these compact points of interest: a statue, a fort, a chapel, a lighthouse, a cave, and a quarry.

The pale marble cliffs of Palmaria are among the strongest visual moments. You may find yourself wishing for more time here because the cliffs are easy to admire from the water, but the boat keeps moving to fit Portovenere into the schedule.

Bring a towel if you hope to swim. Swimming and sailing are part of the planned time around Portovenere, but the exact amount of time in the water depends on sea conditions and the day’s timing. One passenger wanted more than a few minutes for swimming, so treat the swim as a possible bonus rather than the main reason to book.

For children, ask the crew about life jackets before departure. One family noted that they had to request them. Safety equipment should be sorted out before the boat gets moving.

Entering Portovenere through Le Bocche

The approach to Portovenere is the dramatic payoff. The boat passes Byron’s Grotto, linked with the story that poet Lord Byron swam across the bay to Lerici.

The story is part of Portovenere’s literary identity, but the setting is the real attraction. The grotto, cliffs, church, and narrow waterway appear in quick succession.

Then you pass through Le Bocche, the strait between Palmaria and Portovenere. This is one of the best sections for photographs because the waterway frames the village and St. Peter’s Church. The church sits at the tip of the rocky promontory, with its striped stonework and fortress-like shape facing the sea.

The boat’s low position gives you an unusually good angle on the church. You see how Portovenere was built around its harbor and defensive point, not simply placed beside a beach.

What to do with 75 minutes in Portovenere

The stop in Portovenere lasts about 75 minutes. That is enough for a focused visit, but not enough for a leisurely full-day exploration.

I would use the time for a simple loop:

• Walk through the colorful harbor area.
• Follow the historic alleys toward the old church.
• See St. Peter’s Church from the outside and take in the sea views.
• Buy focaccia, cannoli, or another quick snack.
• Leave time to return to the boat without rushing.

The short stop works well if you want an introduction and plan to return another day. It is less satisfying if Portovenere is your main target and you want to browse shops, sit for a long meal, visit every historic corner, and swim from shore.

One useful feature is flexibility. If you are not interested in visiting the village, you can ask the captain about stopping at Punta Secco on Palmaria Island instead. There, you can relax at Gabbiano Beach. This alternative is worth considering if you want more time by the water and less time walking through town.

Do not assume the beach option will always replace the village stop. The route can change with sea and weather conditions, and the published schedule is illustrative rather than fixed.

The return past mussel farms

After Portovenere, the boat returns to La Spezia, passing the mussel farms. This final stretch gives you another view of the gulf’s working side.

The farms are a useful reminder that this is not just a postcard coast. The water supports local food production, fishing traditions, and small coastal settlements. You may be ready to return by this point, but the route still offers good views back toward the islands and villages.

The full activity lasts 2.5 hours. That is a smart length for a shore excursion, a half-day break, or an afternoon when you want to see the coast without giving up an entire day. It is also short enough to fit around other plans in La Spezia, though you should allow extra time for boarding and returning to the waterfront.

Comfort, weather, and practical limits

The boats are described as new and designed for comfort in different conditions. The 12 leather seats are padded, and the ladder makes getting in and out easier. The boat is wheelchair accessible, though you should confirm the exact boarding arrangements when booking if you use a wheelchair.

There are no restrooms on board. Use one before departure, especially if you are traveling with children or have limited access to facilities.

The tour runs rain or shine, but weather and sea conditions can change the route and the feel of the ride. Key sights are intended to remain part of the experience, yet rougher water may mean more spray, less swimming, or a faster passage through certain areas.

Wear secure, low-heeled footwear. Keep your hat and sunglasses firmly attached or stored when the boat is moving. Sunscreen matters even on a cooler day because the water reflects the sun.

Food and drinks are not included. For a 2.5-hour outing, a bottle of water and a small snack are sensible, especially if you plan to use your Portovenere stop for walking rather than lunch.

Cancellation is free up to 24 hours in advance, and you can reserve now and pay later. Those terms are useful when your La Spezia plans depend on ship schedules or changing weather.

Who should book this boat trip?

I would choose this tour if you want a compact, scenic introduction to the Gulf of Poets and prefer seeing the coast from the water. It suits couples, families, and small groups who like a quick ride with a little history, a few photo stops, and time in a handsome coastal village.

It is especially useful for a shore excursion. You leave from La Spezia, avoid arranging separate transport to Portovenere, and return to the same general waterfront. The 2.5-hour length leaves room for other plans.

I would think twice if you dislike speedboats, motion, sun, or limited facilities. I would also choose a longer Portovenere visit if your main goal is a slow meal, extensive sightseeing, or a serious beach day.

Should you book it?

Book this tour if the combination of island scenery, sea caves, ruins, and Portovenere sounds better than spending the whole day in one village. The small boat, local captain, and route past Scola Tower and Palmaria give you far more than a simple ride to town.

Skip it if you need a slow pace or want guaranteed swimming time. At $81, the value is strongest when you treat the boat ride itself as the main attraction and Portovenere as a well-chosen stop, not the entire day’s destination.

FAQ

Where does the boat leave from?

The meeting point is the HopHop Boat floating platform about halfway along Passeggiata Morin in La Spezia.

How long does the tour last?

The activity lasts 2.5 hours.

What languages are available?

The tour is offered in Italian and English.

How many seats are on the boat?

The boat has 12 padded leather seats.

Is Portovenere included?

Yes. The route includes a stop in Portovenere with about 75 minutes of free time for a self-guided visit.

Can I swim during the tour?

Swimming and sailing are included in the planned route, but the amount of swimming time can vary with sea and weather conditions.

Can I visit Palmaria Island instead of Portovenere?

If you do not want to visit the village, you can ask the captain about stopping at Punta Secco on Palmaria Island and relaxing at Gabbiano Beach.

Are food and drinks included?

No. You need to bring or purchase your own food and drinks.

Is there a restroom on board?

No. There are no restrooms on the boat, so use one before boarding.

What should I bring?

Bring sunglasses, a hat, sunscreen, and a towel. High-heeled shoes are not allowed.

Can I cancel the booking?

You can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. The experience also offers a reserve-now, pay-later option.